2007 Barolo: Initial Thoughts on an impressive vintage

I have just returned from a 10-day trip to the Langhe in Piemonte where I was able to taste soon-to-be released bottlings of three wine types produced entirely from the Nebbiolo grape: Roero Rosso (the new bottlings from 2008), Barbaresco (2008) and Barolo (2007). This was the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba, organized for several dozen journalists (as well as some retailers) from around the world. I wrote about 2008 Barbaresco last time out – in this post, I will deal with 2007 Barolo.

First and foremost, this is a very good to excellent vintage, but not one I think can be defined as great. 2007 was a warm year to be sure and the wines have impressive ripeness and very good acidity. The wines are balanced and in some cases, quite approachable now, a trait not seen in the 2006 Barolos. However, that year’s Barolos displayed much deeper concentration along with more firm tannins; the 2006 Barolos are wines for 10-15 years down the road, with many of them peaking in 20-30 years. While there are a few bottlings of 2007 Barolo that will drink well at 25 years of age (such as Pio Cesare “Ornato” and the Renato Ratti “Rocche”), I believe most of these wines will peak at 15-20 years of age, which is for the most part, a typical timeframe for a very good Barolo vintage.

So while 2007 is not a great vintage, it is most certainly an appealing one. Several producers told me that they expect these wines to sell very well, as they have suchforward fruit as well as round, elegant tannins. This is the thing to remember about the quality and characteristic of this vintage; unlike 2006 which needs time, these wines can be enjoyed in the near term. This is important, as there are many wine drinkers who are curious about Barolo, especially this particular vintage, which will no doubt receive very good press. 2006 may be a more classic Piemontese vintage (and one I think is outstanding), but for many wine lovers who do not drink Barolo on a regular basis – or for those interested in discovering Barolo for the first time – 2007 is a vintage that will offer ample pleasure.

As for the individual communes themselves, Verduno performed brilliantly. This is not one of the larger communes of the Barolo zone, but the quality of wines from this small area was remarkably high. There were five wines in the tasting from Verduno and I awarded three of them a 4-star (excellent) rating with one wine receiving three stars (very good) and one wine – the Fratelli Alessandria “Monvigliero”- receiving my top rating of five stars – outstanding. This wine has lovely perfumes – my notes refer to orange pekoe tea, strawberry jam and cedar – and there is beautiful depth of fruit with ideal sturcture. This is a wine that should be at its peak in 20 years – or perhaps longer. The wines from Verduno are not the most powerful of the Barolos, but they are among the most seductive. The producers here, such as Burlotto and Castello di Verduno have been performing at a high level for years, so it’s nice to see their success in 2007.

The commune of La Morra is home to a higher percentage of Barolo vineyards than any other, so naturally there were many bottlings offered at this event. To no surprise, the wines of Renato Ratti were among the very best, especially the“Conca” and “Rocche” bottlings. Both wines offer marvelous aromas of red cherry, orange peel and plum with nicely integrated wood notes backed by an impressive mid-palate. These wines are almost as deeply concentrated as their 2006 counterparts – not quite, but almost – and offer beautiful acidity. These are built for the long haul – I marked down “25 years plus” for the Conca and “30 years” for the Rocche. Pietro Ratti has done a marvelous job following in his father’s footsteps and has been producing some of the finest and most consistent Barolos of the past decade; these bottlings from 2007 are further evidence.

 

Blind tasting, day 3: Villero wins the day

Went through 62 Barolos today (all tasted blind). We’ll be tasting over 150 wines from the acclaimed 2007 vintage, subdivided into production zones. Today, wines from Verduno, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto. I love Verduno wines: they are so fresh, elegant and distinctive. All were a joy to drink, especially the Burlotto Acclivi and Castello di Verduno Massara, one of the very best Barolo buys. I’ll talk more about this tomorrow when I go to Verduno for a special tasting.

Barolo from Barolo town is usually the appellation’s most elegant, with a distinctive red fruit bouquet and soft tannins. In warmer vintages such as 2003 and 2006, however, it’s prone to overripeness and many wines can taste rather flat. It’s not the case in 2007, a vintage that allies attractive ripe fruit with good freshness, although there are not so many great wines – perhaps fewer that I expected from grands crus like Cannubi or Brunate. My top picks are Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate–Le Coste (my favourite winemaker, and even blind tasting cannot obliterate that), Marcarini Brunate, and Francesco Rinaldi Cannubbio.

On the whole, Castiglione Falletto has fared definitely better in 2007. The wines have some extra freshness and minerality that make them more engaging. The top vineyard of the vintage so far appears to be Villero. From the five Villeros on tasting I’ve given top marks to three: Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI,Livia Fontana, and Giacomo Fenocchio. Another superexciting wine isRoccheviberti Rocche di Castiglione. In a time when huge extraction still is the fashion to many Barolo producer Claudio Viberti is making outstandingly elegant wines.

 

Our wines on Decanter

The Barolo Bussia and Barolo Cannubi (2006) gave the Decanter’s three stars!

Giacomo Fenocchio presents the company

Giacomo Fenocchio presents the company during the last edition of Vinitaly.

Giacomo Fenocchio at Vinitaly 2011

Our farm will be present at Vinitaly 2011 P.9 CD1

We’re waiting for you with our new age !

New Giacomo Fenocchio website

You can now discover the Giacomo Fenocchio company on the net. Visit the new website, where it will be possible to find all the information about the wine production and the activity of the company.